Hiya,
first of all, I love that Auralex has this service to help with positioning and what not:
http://www.auralex.com/praf/plus.asp
But what do you make of this? The fella is saying that we shouldn’t listen to anybody saying foam is enough, that there has to be a thick layer of vinyl as well.
http://www.peterdrewvo.com/html/setting_up_an_affordable_home_.html
Cheers.
“soundproofing” and “sound conditioning” are different things.
The studio I used to work in had two solid walls and two heavy fire-doors separating the “live room” from the outside world. (It also had a fire alarm light and bell because fire alarms in other parts of the building could not be heard when in the live room).
Internally it was carpeted, had a couple of “bass traps”, an “acoustic” suspended ceiling, a couple of foam panels and some “peg board” with rock-wool board behind. These did little in terms of “sound isolation” (soundproofing), but did wonders for cutting down room resonances, making it acoustically “flat” without being totally “dead”.
Ah, that’s the thing Steve. You’re right. D’oh.
That room was fairly quiet when I tested as a police helicopter hovered around for over an hour and a half so the conditioning is what I ought to be focusing on.
Phew. Thanks, mate. 
Now completely empty!
https://www.facebook.com/ian.m.walker/media_set?set=a.10152406596961411.1073741859.641111410&type=3
I decided to remove the clothing after all, Koz. For one, I want a proper read for Auralex and for two, I think it really diminishes the professional look I need to go for.
I finally measured the room and it is 5’ 3" x 5’ 1", BTW.
Cheers.
Acoustical Goosh (technical term) is not the only way to do it. Our old company building had a special “round room” whose original purpose was to make nice with the people who played instruments and wanted to practice and record band sessions. I made a number of successful sound recordings in there. It’s secret was non-parallel walls. I don’t think the ceiling was parallel to the floor, either, but I do know if you tried to measure the room for carpeting, it would drive you nuts.
“Each time I measure a wall it comes out different…”
It even sounded funny when you walked in (if you were paying attention) because you couldn’t instinctively tell how big the room was.
A little carpet here and there, throw up a microphone and go.
Contrast that with a different office whose surgically square walls would support a twenty minute echo after you clapped. Those do not work well for recording.
Last item comes from the gamer/video department. Back in history, they bought an anechoic chamber for recording and had to put flats of plywood back in because it sounded a too dead without it. So like everything else, it’s a balancing act.
Koz
I don’t understand, either. I can see your earlier pictures just fine. Koz
Greetings,
some sound tests!
BTW, please do let me know if I’m pestering you fine people too much.
Cheers.
Edit - I didn’t see your other two posts whilst I was creating this one, Koz.
So first, great feedback, thank you. I’ll definitely put the carpet in because apart from anything, there is a squeaky floorboard! hehe. I’m also trying (as you’ll hear from the tests) to see if I can still utilize my mini booth, this time to cut out even the laptop fan ambient noise. I shan’t worry too much about where I place the tiles now, though.
As for FB that is very odd. It has happened to ME a few times but then I go to my profile and hit the album and there it is. I’ve not heard anybody else saying it happens to them, though. I can upload the empty shots here if I’m not burdening you or the system.
The final “before” shots.
Cheers.
We’re always interested in describing known, good, working techniques for producing sound.
I’ve never had to resort to recording in the closet because I’ve either had good facilities at work or I could always record in my third bedroom. The son of the original owners of the house played drums, so they soundproofed the smallest bedroom.
I couldn’t get any luckier.
Koz
Wow, Auralex already got back to me based on the 3D CAD drawing I sent in last night (through their recommended HomeDesigner site). That’s great service, eh?
From: Aaron Kelley [mailto:akelley@auralex.com]
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2014 13:54
To: wwords@ianmwalker.com
Cc: Emily Wilhite
Subject: Your Personal Room Analysis (11457)
Dear Ian,
Thank you for turning to Auralex® Acoustics, Inc. for help with your acoustical needs. I have attached a PDF document which includes a top-view drawing of your room as well as suggested product and product placement. Please keep in mind that these suggestions are prepared off-site, based on the information supplied, and the combined experience of Auralex® Acoustics.
Given the dimensions and application of your room, I am recommending the following:
-Two (2) boxes Studiofoam Wedgies
Twenty-Four (24) per box
Spread over the walls and ceiling as shown in the attached PDF, the Studiofoam Wedgies can help control harsh high frequency reflections between parallel surfaces. This can help to control “room ring” as well as any excess reverberation in the room while helping to improve the stereo image.
I see that you’re renting this space. As opposed to our adhesives, something as simple as a T-pin or finish nail through the foam would work to temporarily hold these panels in place. You can also attach the panels to a lightweight foam-core or pegboard backing, and hang them like picture frames. Either of these methods would work well to temporarily mount these panels.
Our ISO™ Series products can help isolate speakers, amps, and drum kits from the floor. Decoupling these instruments reduces sound transmission and resonance that occurs when resting on a hard surface, which decreases coloration and increases clarity. They are designed to enhance the tonal clarity of your sound sources and refine the accuracy of your microphones.
MoPAD™ Monitor Isolation Pads
GRAMMA™ Amp/Monitor Riser
Audio Engineer’s Pack™
MudGuard™ Microphone
Isolator
PlatFeet™ Isolation Feet
To help locate the dealer nearest you, I have copied our representative in your area or you may refer to our Dealer Locator.
Once again, thank you for choosing Auralex. I hope this has proven helpful. Please feel free to contact us with any additional questions or concerns.
Best Regards,
Aaron Kelley
Application Specialist
Auralex® Acoustics, Inc.
9955 Westpoint Drive, Suite 101
Indianapolis, IN 46256
317-842-2600 | 1-800-959-3343
akelley@auralex.com | http://www.auralex.com
Follow us on: Facebook | Twitter | YouTube
Since I couldn’t upload the PDF they sent, it is here on my OneDrive: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=FF7251924FF7642D!43578&authkey=!ANvXlkGIrfYNTwM&ithint=folder%2c.dwg
The first thing that I’d do with that space is to get some carpet down, preferably with old fashioned “felt” underlay below it. If you can’t get the old “felt” stuff, then aim for a fairly dense underlay rather than just the soft foam stuff. It does not have to be a fitted carpet, a rug will do. Carpet can make a huge difference to the acoustics of a room, absorbing much of the “zing”. Given the cost of sound absorbent foam, carpet can work out to be quite economical as part of the acoustic treatment.
Working out exactly what you need is very difficult. Even the experts can make expensive mistakes.
Foam does little to help with boominess, or with sound proofing. What it does help with is “high frequency absorption”, or as I would describe, reducing the “zing” (that bright reverberation that is typified by tiled bathrooms). Generally heavier, more dense foams can absorb down to lower frequencies than lighter foams. For low frequencies (boom), foams are largely ineffective, and that is where various types of “bass trap” come in.
Rooms that have a very regular shape tend to have a less even acoustic response than irregular shaped rooms. Large parallel surfaces tend to accentuate frequencies that have a wavelength that is the same. or an exact multiple of the distance between those surfaces, “Diffusers” can help to break up these resonances to create a more even acoustic response.
One way to judge the “sound” of a space is to stand in the middle, clap, and listen to the sound. How much does it ring? Does it have a discernible “note”. Unless the room is very large there is not likely to be any distinct “echo”.
Particularly because of the expense involved, it is worth doing a lot of reading on the subject before finalising your purchase. There’s quite a good article here: http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/dec09/articles/beginnersacoustics.htm
Steve, thank you once again.
Yes I don’t have much money at the moment so do need to be careful. The other item they recommended, the Mudguard, I’ve put on my Amazon wish list (tis my birthday soon) and I think my best mate is getting me that. I shall read that article and look at bass traps too, though.
I do have carpet, fortunately as there was some left over from when my living room was re-carpeted a few months ago. I don’t think they left any backing, though. It is also bigger than the room and at first I expected to cut it but then wondered if I should just let it curve up the walls?
Did you get a chance to listen to the sound clips I posted yesterday without any foam or anything yet? All my untrained ear could detect was a bit of an echo and a hollow sort of sound.
Cheers.
The first thing that I’d do with that space is to get some carpet down
Note the double layer of furniture moving pad on the floor. That’s over a layer of industrial carpeting (gray). The walls are double layers of moving quilts.
Koz
New Studio Completely Empty 4.wav
I think we’ve identified the first problem. The fourth clip “further suppressing the laptop noise” won’t pass ACX noise guidelines.
“mmmmmmmmmmmm”
See Illustration. One peak at 60 (US Power Line- Mains) one at 120 and one at 240. The last two are the audible ones, probably caused by the power system and fan controllers.
One major problem with USB microphones is the inability to get away from a noisy computer.
Koz
Well then, fiddlesticks!
Yes, I definitely need more on the floor. Though the piece was wider than the room it wasn’t enough to completely cover the floor anyway. 
I shall look into that. Thanks.
As for the noise, once I have all the padding (and hopefully the Mudguard a mate is getting me for my birthday) plus use the tricks you lot have taught me, won’t it then pass? Hmm, I could also get a USB extender for the meantime.
If not, another friend is hoping get me this from my wish list for my birthday.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZADRMC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1SDF2RYES14KR&coliid=I3PY7UNF0JPI21
But yeesh, I thought I was so fortunate to actually have a quiet room that so many don’t.
Cheers.
But yeesh, I thought I was so fortunate to actually have a quiet room that so many don’t.
You do have a quiet room. It’s the computer that’s noisy.
I could also get a USB extender for the meantime.
You should be able to park the computer outside the room and snake the cable past the doorway without damaging anything. I probably wouldn’t go much over six feet (2M). USB was designed to connect your keyboard within arms reach, not a sound device on the other side of the house.
Rode NT1-A
That’s not too shabby. That gets you into the Phantom-Powered XLR microphone territory. That means you can put the microphone a hundred feet away from the Audiobox and the computer. you could put the computer in the car if you wanted.
But… I can’t go to bed until I’ve thrown a little cold water around. The sound meter you have to pay attention to during recording is on the computer and the Audiobox doesn’t have sound meters.
I thought this up for field recording, but it would work for you, too.
This is where I post a sound clip, but I don’t have one that wasn’t intentionally trashed because of testing.
Koz
Tis done!
Apart from a squeaky floorboard which I shall be working on in the next couple of days (I found a kit which supposedly fixes beneath floorboard squeaks) the home studio is finished.
I may add one more box of Auralex at some point but for the time being this is it.
PLEASE tell me I finally have it right?
I’ve included both the raw version and then the processed with the advice you have given me here. The Limiter I found was George Yhong’s W1 Limiter though I’m not entirely certain which settings to choose beyond the -3 limit.
It is so wonderful not hearing ANY traffic noise now.
Cheers.
You still should try to track down and fix the hum. It’s right at -60 db in the “processed” recording you posted which is the ACX limit, but it should be possible to do a lot better.
Assuming you’re still using the USB mic try getting a separately powered USB hub and installing that between the mic and the computer.
Thanks, Flynwill.
I couldn’t hear it myself but perhaps I still need better headphones.
I don’t have a spare powered USB at the moment (well not one that would allow the mic to communicate with the computer still) but I do have a USB extension so I’ve moved it further away. I shall also close off a curtain I have in the room over the computer. That is the only thing I can imagine is making the hum unless it was the temporary lamp I had in there as the overhead light’s cord snapped. I have that fixed now so will try another recording tonight.
Cheers.
That may do it. That !@#$% frying mosquito noise is low enough down so you can slice it off by gently noise reducing it — which appears to be what you did in part B.
I think you have arrived. Read something for real.
Koz
