Blue Yeti Burning smell?

Short Story:
I hardwired a Mini USB cable into my car’s fuse box (wires to Mini USB) and plugged in my Blue Yeti to the car, turned it on and POP. Mic smells bad, I rushed it to a working PC and now it doesn’t work.

Long Story:
Alright, some of you might read this and think “Wow this guy must have been really stupid” and yes, I was. back in 2011 i purchased a Blue Yeti microphone, it had been great up until about 2 years ago. I had just started tinkering with electronics and seeing how they worked and see what I could do to them. One day I decided that I was going to power on my blue yeti microphone by plugging it into my car. That’s simple, right? Well, I actually decided to try and hard wire a Mini USB in to my fuse box of my car. So i went online and found out how to split a USB cable into the fuse box; I did that. On the other end of the wire was the Mini USB, I plugged that into my microphone and started my car… yeah. I know what your thinking by this point. My mic made a pop sound and i quickly shut everything off and unplugged it. I started to smell the stench of burnt rubber from my microphone. I quickly rushed to a near by computer and plugged it in as if I was trying to save a dying patient, except… this patient was already dead. So that’s kind of my story, now 2 years later I am looking into to actually fixing it.

Question:
What part do I need to analyze and replace to get this working again if possible? Any resources on this would be awesome, i already have it opened up and I see no burn marks on the motherboard (I don’t know if there would be any, but i’m just telling you what I have check for).

You can absolutely substitute a good 5 volt lab power supply for the ratty 5 volts coming down from the computer’s USB services. That’s how flynwill got rid of his USB noise problems. You can’t substitute the 13.5 volts from your car. I think you have a decorative object in the shape of a Yeti, not a working microphone. I’ll give you that you got the polarity the right way 'round

That thump you hear is you bumping into the Return On Investment problem. You can probably fix it with the parts that will cost about double a new Yeti.

You can, in fact, build a little regulator board to take the car 12 volts down to 5 volts to run the Yeti. Here, I’ll design one on this napkin for you. That would have worked. You left out a step. Don’t plug anything else into that USB cable…like your phone.

Koz

If you haven’t seen the Holy Smoke, it’s hard to tell :laughing:

Have you ever soldered SMD components before?

A condenser mic isn’t the easiest of things to repair, especially a USB one. The USB controller and AD are probably up in smoke. Getting these parts could be impossible or expensive.

First thing to check (without touching it, in a VERY CLEAN environment), is the capsule. If that doesn’t look wrinkled, burnt, or in any other way damaged, it might be possible. Maybe you could take some pics of the capsule and circuit board and post these here?

Sure thing, here you are.
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in a VERY CLEAN environment), is the capsule.



USB Condenser Microphone with Stereo, Cardioid, Omnidirectional, and Bidirectional Modes >

One capsule? Where do you get the one capsule idea from? I count at least two…

Koz

I stand corrected.

Those mic gurus at Blue put in an innovative triple capsule array

Koz

My guess is that parts and circuit diagrams will not be available, or at best only the complete circuit board. You will need to contact Blue to find out what is available. If they repair it for you they will almost certainly replace either the entire circuit board or the circuit board + capsule as a complete unit.

We don’t know yet which version the OP has…

If it’s one of the latest, it’s a 3-capsule setup. But I think the first Blue yeti was a single capsule.

In the newer ones, there’s a second circuit board under the first one which carries the AD chip. I can’t see a second circuit board on the pics of this mic, so I guess the AD is on the backside of this board?

Anyhow, without schematics, experience and tools for smd soldering, this is an almost impossible job.

@OP: Which model is it exactly and do you have experience soldering smd components?

I guess you’re out of luck. Sometimes the yellow capacitor bows and eats all the juice. In such cases, the AD could survive and replacing on capacitor is fairly easy. But it didn’t blow visually. Do you have a DMM to measure if the cacpaitor has a short or is open?

SMD - Surface Mounted Devices. That’s those little bugs with the hair-thin legs. I do mine under a zoom microscope and even then it’s not fun. You need a soldering station with a really tiny point and there are special soldering techniques when the devices get down that small.

DMM - Digital Multi Meter. That you can do at Radio Shack.

http://comingsoon.radioshack.com/radioshack-15-range-digital-multimeter/2200182.html#.VZaYM-1Viko

or Sears.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-multimeter-digital-with-8-functions-and-20/p-03482141000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=03482141000&pla=&kispla=03482141000P&mktRedirect=y

If you like to do things like take your car apart, you may already have one of these. You don’t get very far with guesswork and a wet finger, particularly if you have something broken.

AD - Also A/D. Analog to Digital converter. It may be a digital microphone, but the signals inside are still analog until they need to squirt down the wire as USB. That can also be the demarcation point between the USB service and the rest of the microphone. Certainly subject to failure if the 5 volts goes nuts.

Koz

My guess is that you have fried the USB interface/AD chip, and quite likely other components as well. Even if you had the tools and skills to replace the parts it’s a loosing proposition over just buying a new mic. Particularly if Cyrano is right and your mic is an older version, the A/D component may no longer be made. Although the insides of yours seems to match this youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV74lXvfwaQ which is two PCBs like Cyrano says the newer ones have.

In response to other postings about the Yeti and it’s problems I’ve searched for schematics of the Blue Yeti with no luck. I’d love to know what parts they are using, would you be willing to read the numbers off the ICs and post them? (Particularly the ~40-lead unit near the bottom of your first picture.)

It’s not really a question of how old the yeti is, just that these AD’s are sometimes integrated with the USB part and they are very proprietary, having a name and serial number. They’re just not available on the open market as they were taylor made for Blue Microphones. And I doubt Blue will sell these as spare parts.

Some audio interfaces are beginning to show the same problem, but fortunately the next gen will be less proprietary.

So unless you’re in Federal Corrections or retired, your time is worth dollars and again bump into Return on Investment problem.

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Yeti

Koz

Well, the version of my audio device is kind of unknown, but I talked with the company and heard mine was outdated. The proof being that I have a “THX Certified” logo on the front. I got this back in 2011.

I have a soldering gun (not tiny, but a small one) and slight experience soldering, i know people who can help though.

I do in fact have a DMM, but I would not know how to test properly. I might know someone who could help with it, but in case you can tell me how to, I will do that.

So I decided to upload my photos in a much higher quality than what the website has given me, here is a link to these photos is HD http://imgur.com/a/Ij3Cm

Something interesting to note: When plugged in, the light will turn on, but the computer wont say it is being read, nor will the button flash for mute. it is just constantly red when plugged in.

Thanks for the pictures. Unfortunately the news for you is the same: You have almost certainly fried one of more of the ICs in the unit. And replacing them is going to be pretty impractical.

It took some searching but I was able to find a glossy on the UAC-3576B Codec (the 64-pin quad-flat-pack): https://www.usbid.com/datasheets/usbid/2010/2010-q2/uac3576b.pdf

The small 8-pin package near by is a flash memory that probably contained custom firmware for the DSP built into the interface. I can see from your pictures that both are powered directly from the USB bus power, so the odds are low either survived the 12-volt adventure.

Trident went bankrupt in 2012, and I’m guessing that may have been the end of the line for that part. Micronas (the name on the label) still exists, but it appears that Micronas had sold it’s consumer electronics division to Trident in 2009, suggesting your microphone may date from before then or a bit later. Also I was able to decode the date code on the flash memory as the last week of 2009. Did you buy it new in 2011?

In any case I’m guessing newer Blue Yeti’s have a different CODEC chip, and that might even explain why some have the “frying mosquitoes” and others don’t.

If you are truly into hacking, the odds are pretty good that the microphone elements and the op-amps all survived. You could potentially tap off the analog audio and feed into the sound system of your choice. Of course in doing so you will be lacking whatever black-magic was being done by the DSP in the CODEC IC.

Unfortunately for me, i dont know what all this means… right now it seems like I wont be able to fix this Blue Yeti mic. You think I could sell it for parts if this is the case?

Oh, I’m sure if you put it back together and put it up on EBay “for parts or repair” it will fetch a few bucks.

small 8-pin package near by is a flash memory that probably contained custom firmware for the DSP built into the interface.

In short, redesign the microphone so it doesn’t need the burned bits or put it on eBay as parts.

Koz