Recording using Rode NT1 so quiet I can barely hear anything

[mommyslittleman]

Good day all. First of all, let me state that I am ignorant when it comes to using a pro microphone like the Rode NT1. I only have experience with USB mics that just work, so I'm an absolute beginner here. I am using a Rode NT1 through a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. At first, I couldn't get anything working. But after disabling the HD Audio device driver, I'm actually getting static in my headphones. Progress.

Now, I can barely hear anything. By barely hear anything, I mean it might as well be nonexistent. The audio is so low that it doesn't make a blip on Audacity. When I turn on and off the 48V I can see audio waves in the program, but speaking doesn't make my speech any clearer or higher. I have the microphone with the gold dot facing me, and have tried placing the microphone upside down/rightside up, wondering if that will make a difference with the volume. It doesn't.

My microphone and speakers are all set to their Focusrite counterparts. I have tried recording in mono and stereo. Nothing seems to make a difference. I feel like I'm missing something obvious, but a point in the right direction would be appreciated so I can figure this thing out. Thanks in advance everyone.

[DVDdoug]

I looks like there is software called Focusrite Control, and that might need to be configured.

Phantom power should be on. Condenser mics require power.

Does the mic have an LED indicating that it's getting power? Are there any switches on the mic? (I don't think so.)

I have the microphone with the gold dot facing me,

I assume that's right. It's a directional side-address mic so it picks-up sound from the front side (not the back side or the end). Actually, it will pick-up sound from other directions but it's attenuated. Turning it upside down or sideways won't make a difference.

I believe the LED rings around the gain knobs light-up green when you have a signal and red when the signal is too loud. Are you seeing green?

With your headphones plugged into the interface you can press the direct button you should hear the microphone without the going through the computer.

You can also try loading a known-good file into Audacity to see if you can play-back through the Focusrite.

[mommyslittleman]

I looks like there is software called Focusrite Control, and that might need to be configured.

I originally thought the problem may be with the Focusrite Control software. I e-mailed customer support and they told me that the software does not smaller devices:

<i>The Focusrite Control software does not register metering for the smaller devices:

Solo and the 2i2


The only feature you can "enable or disable" is the AIR function or switching IP 2 to Instrument when this calls for it. We are not in any way referencing Focusrite Control unable to control the Scarlett products below:

4i4
8i6
18i8
18i20


The Focusrite Control software does not register metering for the smaller device inputs - those mentioned up top. All of the indicators for input and connectivity are on the hardware itself.

In your screenshots the Focusrite Control software is fully communicating to the Scarlett Solo but there are no inputs monitoring or output monitoring and or level control for this device from Focusrite Control. All control - as limited as it is - happens on the Solo hardware face:

GAINS DR IP 1 & 2
PHANTOM POWER
MONITOR CONTROL + HEADPHONE OUTUTS

As you have witnessed, "people controlling the Rode NT-1 via Focusrite Control" are not using a Solo or a 2i2 and if they are, they;r only able to switch the first IP AIR function On/Off or enabling Instrument level boost on the second. You can also swtich sample rates but this is not necessary because the Solo will always sync to the recording software's settings. </i>

And the guy is right. That's basically the only thing the software does for my Solo: puts it into Air, or turns on the line/instrument. I thought it was broken.

Does the mic have an LED indicating that it's getting power? Are there any switches on the mic? (I don't think so.)

Correct. There are not indicators on the mic.

I believe the LED rings around the gain knobs light-up green when you have a signal and red when the signal is too loud. Are you seeing green?

That's right. When I turn on the phantom power, click AIR or INST the lights go green for a brief second (like it is powering on). However, when I am speaking into the microphone I don't get any indicators at all. No lights, nothing.

With your headphones plugged into the interface you can press the direct button you should hear the microphone without the going through the computer.

I press it, and all I get is static. I can speak into the microphone, but I don't hear anything except the static of the headphones.

I restarted my computer and plugged all the cords back into the unit, and I can definitely hear my voice much better now. I see actual blips on Audacity, though it sounds like I'm somewhat underwater. Then again, I don't know if that's because I hear nothing but static in my headphones or if I need to tweak Audacity settings. So more progress, but the main issue is hearing myself through the headphones and getting the Solo to work appropriately. Makes me wonder if it's the Solo itself or if I'm missing something.

[kozikowski]

I think probably starting with the obvious. There's an NT1 and an NT1a. Which one do you really have? The NT1a is labeled near the connector on the front and the NT1 is labeled on the rear.

There's different Solos. Do you have a Third Gen?

Is the tiny USB sign (funny fork thing) in the far upper right lit up?

If you have an AIR button, leave it off. That's a promotional-marketing special effect. Turn 48V on. Turn the right-hand (GAIN 2) knob all the way down.

Turn the left hand knob, with the microphone connected, all the way up. Get about a Hawaiian Shaka away from the microphone gold dot and speak normally.



Can you get the green knob flashing? Never blow into a microphone! If you can't get the green knob, get closer and louder until you do. Again, the left-hand Solo knob GAIN-1 should be all the way up. You can speak or yell as loud as you want. If you can't get a green knob ever, then something may be broken.

Koz

[mommyslittleman]

I think probably starting with the obvious. There's an NT1 and an NT1a. Which one do you really have? The NT1a is labeled near the connector on the front and the NT1 is labeled on the rear.

There's different Solos. Do you have a Third Gen?

Is the tiny USB sign (funny fork thing) in the far upper right lit up?

NT1. The Solo is a third generation. The USB sign is lit up.

If you have an AIR button, leave it off. That's a promotional-marketing special effect. Turn 48V on. Turn the right-hand (GAIN 2) knob all the way down.

Turn the left hand knob, with the microphone connected, all the way up. Get about a Hawaiian Shaka away from the microphone gold dot and speak normally.

AIR button is off, 48V on, right gain is down while the left hand knob is up. I got a Hawaiian Shaka away and spoke normally, but nothing lit up. Eventually, I put my mouth right near the gold dot and yelled, and the green knob to the mic lit up. I have to basically yell for it to light up at all. No matter how close my mouth was to the gold dot, even when I spoke normally nothing lights up.

[kozikowski]

The NT1 is a side-address microphone. You speak into the side grill just up from the gold dot. The Company name should be facing you.

the left hand knob is up.

All the way? That's important.

Are you using a plain XLR cable with three pins on one end and three holes on the other?



If the Solo is totally cranked, then that's the end of the world. Did you keep the papers and receipts? What's the return policy?

If the solo is all the way up, screaming into the microphone should give you not only the green knob, but red overload.

Which USB microphone were you using and do you still have it?

Why did you go to a new system?

Koz

[mommyslittleman]

I tried it every which way with the company name facing me, and still the same thing. The left knob is all the way up. I'm using that exact kind of XLR cable as well. I was able to get an orange color but not a red. And truthfully, a loud, 'hooyah' sound only registered green as it is.

I bought it from Amazon so I can get a return. I owned a Yeti that I was never happy with years ago, but a family member's dog chewed the cable so it's been gone for years at this point. I'm back at square one without the Solo it seems. Any recommendations on a unit that works well with a Rode NT1, or is there something I'm missing with the Solo?

[kozikowski]

I owned a Yeti that I was never happy with years ago

You can get a new USB cable for a Yeti. That is not rocket surgery.

Not happy because you're not supposed to be happy? It didn't make you sound like a BBC Presenter? Noisy? Sometimes they can make background noises and Audacity has tools to address that.

If it's been long enough, you may have gotten your Yeti before they improved the instructions. They used to leave it to small type on page 73 of the instructions to tell you where the front of the microphone was. I've seen multiple YouTube performances where someone was using it wrong.

The new instructions look like this.



Up to you.

I have no recommendations. I was expecting your Solo to work. It's possible it's a NT1 problem, but I doubt it. That's a respectable microphone.

I've been dancing around this, but how soft-spoken are you? I had to get a voice track from a perfectly lovely woman who had excellent diction and very good theatrical expression, but whose volume never got above a soft whisper. That took some doing.

Koz

[mommyslittleman]

Yes, I could have replaced the cable. But at that point I was already annoyed by the microphone so I didn't fool with it anymore. I sold it long ago. This was around 2014-2015.

I have a deep, soft spoken voice. That could be an issue. Like I said though, I was practically yelling into the microphone and the Solo was only at a green level. But yes, I would not rule out my soft spoken voice.

[kozikowski]

I got nothing. You don't fit the profile of the Average Home User. It's deadly in your case because home recording systems come out of the box quiet.

Overload, clipping, and high volume distortion sound bad immediately and makes the buyer want to send the system back. Clear, but low volume makes the performer think it's their fault—and keep the system. Marketing is not stupid.

I have a Shure X2U microphone preamplifier.



It has a nice place in a box in the garage. I wrote to Shure and said I would kill to get just 10dB more volume boost out of this thing. They wrote back and said, "That's the way it is."

Back to the garage.

Koz