Remove vinyl artifacts using spectral effects \ EQ best settings (Vinyl restoration problem)

Hi, I’m new here. So I’m digitizing vinyl records, that’s my way (That’s not the topic of my problem but first I will tell you it):
*) I have a USB turntable, but I’m not using the USB cable because I know that it makes the vinyl sound bad when I’m digitizing it
*) To connect the turntable to my computer I’m using AV cables that plugged into AV2HDMI (Video converter but it’s also AV audio converter alternative for me) plugged into HDMI video capture card, plugged into my computer.
*) I’m using Audacity to remove cilcks with the effects Click Removal and Repair, for most of the clicks I’m using izotope RX Declick plugin in Bandlab Cakewalk along with their Decrackle effect plugin
*) To remove the background noise I’m using 2 Audacity effects: Noise Reduction and Dynamic Compressor.
*) To remove damages like scratches and winds etc., I’m using Audacity’s spectral effects. But what if there’s loud playing instruments that there’s a click \ pop or damage artifacts that sounds like kick drum? I’m just 14 1\2 (almost) year old teen and I want to use some free effect at least to restore vinyl audios even more!
I even have more problem about vinyl EQ: When I’m selecting the entire audio, what are best settings to equalize it to make it sound more new?
Please help me with all these problems, thank you!


(I also have 2 short samples but Audacity won’t let me upload multiple files, so I will just create a Mega folder and give a link for it)

Mega folder: 463.7 KB folder on MEGA
Folder code: HgMzkF9TL5NL5WI0pxVqfA

Compression Is not going to reduce background noise,
(if make-up gain is enabled on the compressor the background noise will actually get worse).

You’ll never get “digital quality”. :frowning:

That’s not necessarily true. The “weak link” is (usually) the record itself, especially the noise.

Apparently, you are using the same preamp (built-into the turntable) in both cases, and probably neither one has a recording volume control.

The recording level isn’t critical as long as it’s not too loud and clipping (distorting). If one of them is clipping, use the other.

Also, the AV converter might be using some kind of lossy file compression (MPEG, etc.). That’s not necessarily terrible but the “best practice” is to keep everything lossless, and then if you want MP3 (or some other lossy format), convert to MP3 ONCE as the last step.

Izotope has a very good reputation but I’ve never used it.

I have Wave Repair ($30 USD) and it can do a “perfect” job on most (but not all) clicks & pops. It’s manual, which means you have find and select the defects manually and that’s VERY time consuming. But that also means it only “touches” the audio where you identify a defect. It actually seems to work better on the bad clicks & pops ,maybe because they are easier to find. It also has a spectral view mode (to help find the defects), and it has several different repair methods.

I also have Wave Corrector (FREE) which is fully automatic, but probably not any better than what you already have. I don’t have that much experience with it.

Compression makes the low-level noise WORSE, even without make-up gain (because you’re going to listen at the same volume either way).

In general, dynamic compression (unrelated to file compression like MP3) makes the loud parts quieter or the quiet parts louder (boosting the background noise) so it reduces the signal-to-noise ratio.

In practice, usually the loud parts are “pushed down” and then make-up gain might be used to make “everything louder”.

If you have super-loud clicks & pops that are louder than the music, compression (or limiting) it CAN make those (relatively) quieter. (Limiting is a fast-kind of dynamic compression.)

A noise gate is downward EXPANSION (the opposite of compression). It makes the quiet parts quieter, or completely silent. It’s worth trying to reduce the noise during silent or quiet parts but sometimes you hear the background noise going up-and-down it’s worse and more distracting than leaving it alone.

P.S.
I find that lots of older records are a bit “dull sounding” (rolled-off highs) so I’ll sometimes use the Graphic EQ to boost the high frequencies
3-6dB. But compare to a good-sounding CD do you don’t over-do it.

You may find that some other EQ helps too if the recording doesn’t “sound right”.

And at the end, I usually Normalize or Amplify to “maximize” the volume. If you’re used EQ or anything else that might boost the volume, make sure to do that before exporting so that the exported file isn’t clipped. You can normalize the album as a whole to keep the quieter songs relatively quieter and the loud songs relatively louder (as the artist/producer intended) or you can normalize them individually if you prefer.

You may also want to keep an original unprocessed copy in case you later realize that you messed-up something, or made something worse.

I see that you say that dynamic compressor is bad to reduce noise. I say that it works, trust me. I can digitize some record and use the noise reduction + dynamic compressor then send here the results. You will see that it sounds good.

If the compressor is being triggered* it’s going to make faint sounds, (like hiss), relatively louder.
Reducing the loudness difference between loud and quiet sounds is what a compressor does.
[ * it’s possible to set a compressor so it does nothing: threshold too high ].

I’m trying to download Wave Corrector but it says that the software is unsafety. What can I do?

I’m not 100% sure if it’s safe!
And like I said, it’s probably no better than what you already have.

Wave Repair might be worth trying, and there’s a free trial.

I have an older version (3.7) that I got before it was free. Nothing “bad” happened to my computer.

I ignored the warnings, downloaded 3.8, and checked it with VIRUSTOTAL and I got 3 warnings. (I didn’t install the new version.)

VIRUSTOTAL gives me one warning with the old program.