Audacity 2.4.2 Windows 8.1
Newbie here with a probably ignorant question but that’s how I learn.
I just learned how to import an audio file from iTunes. I have gone through the file with Audacity and am very pleased with the end result. I have read what audacity has to say about exporting so I think I know how to get the file back into iTunes. What I don’t know is if I need to delete the original audio file from iTunes before I export my edited and improved copy of the audio file. When I go to play this file on iTunes I want iTunes to access only my edited file. Do I delete the old file before I export or does it automatically happen when I export the new file back to the same location in iTunes?
Sorry for adding a 2nd question: I have a usb phonograph (Ion Profile Pro) that included software for my Dell PC. The software works well with importing my LP’s and 78’s into iTunes where I can then access and edit using Audacity. The only thing I dislike about the software is that it has no feature that allows me to pause the process in order to flip the record over onto side 2. I’m grateful that I can use Audacity to edit out the time spent flipping the record. Is there a better software program available for importing music from my records?
What I don’t know is if I need to delete the original audio file from iTunes before I export my edited and improved copy of the audio file.
You can delete the old file from the iTunes library. …I think you just right-click it in iTunes and then hit the delete key. That just removes it from iTunes, it doesn’t erase the file. You should probably remove the old file first so you’re sure which-is-which.
Is there a better software program available for importing music from my records?
Audacity can record. Your choice of recording software doesn’t affect recording quality (assuming no “problems”). It’s just “capturing” the digital audio stream.
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Audacity has a few tools (effects) for removing clicks & pops - There is an automatic Click Removal effect, a manual Repair effect, or as a last resort, you can zoom-in and re-draw the waveform. The regular Noise Reduction effect can help with low-level constant hum or hiss. There is also a FREE automatic de-clicker application called [u]Wave Corrector[/u], and I’ve used [u]Wave Repair[/u] ($30 USD) which works manually.
Some old records are a little “dull sounding”, so I’ll often boost the highs with the Graphic Equalizer. And, I almost always Amplify/Normalize as the last step before exporting.
My top tip: start with the ones you like the least - if you start with your favourites, as you get better you will only want to go back and redo them - don’t as me how I know
